To the Algarve! (but not beyond)
After our ride on the Telecabine we returned to the mall and each of us had some lunch. After that we crossed back into the station where we were among the first to board the train that travels south and east before turning westward and crossing the Tejo on the 25th of April Bridge into Almada passing close to the Cristo Rei statue
(From Lisbonguru.com)
before eventually turning south toward the Algarve. As the train filled with riders at each of the two local stations closer to our flats it became apparent why boarding at its point of origin had been a wise choice if we were to sit together. (The statue should look familiar. It’s construction was inspired by a 1934 visit to Rio de Janeiro by Lisbon’s Cardinal Patriarch.)
Although we had a long delay because of the strike and it would be nearing sunset when we reached Albufeira, most of our journey passed through the Alentejo Litoral – an area known for its olive groves and vineyards as well as for its production of tomatoes, rice and cork – in daylight. I used the journey for some moments of quiet introspection and to observe the passing countryside while my sister and brother-in-law did the same. We all might have dozed a bit, too. My grandnephews seemed to have spent most of the ride engaged with their portable electronic devices. Although I can’t say that they missed long stretches of compelling scenery, I’m admittedly an old guy even if I don’t necessarily see myself as creepy, and do wish they’d been a bit more engaged in the experience.
Our driver met us when we arrived in Albufeira and took us about half an hour west to a lovely high-end resort in Carvoeiro where we would have had time to explore this seaside town and enjoy views like this
had the strike not intervened and we’d arrived as scheduled. Still, we did have that unplanned ride on the Telecabine.
Skies are sunny and clear
On my first trip to Portugal in May 2022, I spent some extended time in Lagos and had taken a boat tour of those nearby beaches and grottoes. However, the caves at Benagil are far more famous so this would be a nice point of comparison for me. Fortunately, the rain that greeted us after breakfast had stopped by the time we reached our departure point in Portimão. (We were granted a beautiful rainbow on that ride and as we sailed out toward the Atlantic Ocean.)
Before boarding the boat, however, we were treated to a unique aspect of Portimão. Storks. Yes, storks. Like many avian species storks are migratory. At least some storks are. Most of the storks of the Algarve are not and, while there’s no official count, the best estimate puts their regional population at about 14,000.
They construct enormous nests on top of light posts, chimneys, church steeples, and yes, even in trees. The nests are protected by Portuguese law and, once constructed, they can’t be disturbed. Unlike most birds that communicate through songs, chirps, and other vocalizations, storks clack their bills.
Wild storks live for as long as 35 years and mate for life with the females laying a brood of 3-5 eggs in April. They use the same nest year after year and if a nest is abandoned, other storks are likely to move in. I’m not certain the residents of the Algarve find them and their clacking as charming as we tourists.
The rain had stopped and the clouds were beginning to clear when we met our captain, Mauro, and our guide Andre, donned our life vests, and boarded the small boat for our tour of the coast. We set off in a southerly direction along the Arade River and in a few short kilometers had passed into the Atlantic. The day was cool but not unpleasantly so and the water was surprisingly calm.
After passing a beach call Caneiros, our first stop was at the gruta do contrabandista or smuggler’s cave which, like many along this sandstone stretch of shoreline, has an opening at the top which, together with its navigability, would have certainly made it useful for smugglers.
As we continued west along the coast, we entered the Lover’s Cave, passed several beautiful beaches, including the Algar Seco near the town of Carvoeiro where we’d stayed the previous night, and any number of formations in which one could discern all sorts of images (pareidolia) such as this one,
in which Andre discerned not only a human face but that of Cristiano Ronaldo!
Of course, the boat ride ended with the Benagil Cave – perhaps the most famous spot along the Algarve coast and we were fortunate to be traveling there in the off season. I think we passed two other boats exploring that stretch of coast. During the summer the crowds are many multiples of that so we essentially had the cave all to ourselves.
On the other hand, it may have been the time of year or the angle of the sun at that time of the morning or it may be simply my lack of skill as a photographer but none of the photos I took capture either the way it looks live or the way it’s seen in the promotional shots. Here’s what I consider the best of mine.
With all the detours and stops, the ride to this point required about an hour and a half (and I have to give kudos to both Mauro for navigating through some tricky spots and to Andre who was both informative and amusing). We covered the same distance on our return in about a third of that time and, given our speed, on this leg of the voyage we all felt the chill so much that we stopped for a hot beverage as soon as we reached the shore.
Our driver, Nuno, showed us a little more of Portimão before taking us back to Albufeira where we grabbed a pre-made lunch at a tiny cafe near the station before the three plus hour ride back to Lisboa. Here’s where you can find all my pictures from this day.
(Special thanks to my post publication proofreader DD who spotted one egregious and embarrassing grammar / spelling error that I have since corrected.)