August 29, 2022 https://gruncleodd.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/DSCN3663-190x143.jpg

When I’d told Ana that one of the places I was eager to see was the Jardim Bordallo Pinhero, she reacted almost giddily – telling me this choice, combined with my preference for Sagres beer, practically made me an honorary …

August 26, 2022 https://gruncleodd.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/DSCN3651Firefighters-memorial-190x143.jpg

Cimetério dos Prazeres. Cemetery of Pleasures. An intriguing name, no? And an intriguing sequence in this blog to be writing about a cemetery called Pleasures immediately after writing about the birth of fado in Lisbon’s taverns and brothels. Sadly, the …

August 25, 2022 https://gruncleodd.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/Jose_malhoa_fado-190x162.jpg

Let me get this out of the way from the start. Just as no native Portuguese would rhyme Chiado with ‘shadow’, neither would they rhyme fado with the first note of the musical scale. Rather, they would pronounce it more …